Mt. Jefferson North Ridge (Basecamp Smith Rock)

Join MAA members an to climb Mt. Jefferson by a technical alpine route. This is the second-highest mountain in Oregon and an elusive alpine peak. We'll climb the Jefferson Park Glacier route with a mix of glacier travel, steep arete mixed climbing and a spicy 4th class summit pinnacle at 10,497. Prior experience climbing on steep snow and rock required (SNOW 3, SNOW 4). Loaner gear may be available. We have room for 6. Hope to have you out with us!

SCREENED EVENT: Please join the waitlist. Attendees will be selected based on skill proficiency and experience shown on their MAA profile. Those registered will be notified, please pay the expedition fee to confirm. Thank you! 

DETAILS:

• What's happening: 3-day ascent of Mt. Jefferson via the Jefferson Park Glacier route. Climbing 6,400' total elevation. 5+ mile approach to Jefferson Park camping. Roped glacier travel among crevasses, crossing a bergschrund, mixed climbing on steep snow and 4th class rock climbing. Possibly desert rock climbing if we end up at Smith Rocks instead. This event is held immediately after the Mt. Hood North Face climb, which will also be headquartered at Smith Rock SP. During the week of April 22 - 27, MAA members will have an ongoing basecamp there. 
• Where to meet: Smith Rock State Park climber campground, Wednesday, April 24th.
• Event Leader: Darren Shutt, (916) 872-3399 darren@mountainascent.org
• Minimum / Maximum: 4,6
• Required Skills and Fitness: Proficiency in roped glacier travel and crevasse rescue, proficiency in roped lead climbing on steep mixed snow and 4th class rock, rappelling, navigation, wilderness camping, and robust fitness to handle three long days consecutively. 
• What to bring: Warm, stormproof layers for upper and lower body - 4 layers for upper and 3 layers for lower, minimum. 2 pair socks and gloves, warm mittens, warm headwear, sunglasses, goggles, gaiters. Belay device, prusik, 2 locking and 2 non-locking carabiners, 2 runners, harness, helmet, warm mountain boots, sharp steel crampons fit to your boots, pair of ice tools and/or mountain axes, food for 2 nights / 3 days, waterbottles, spoon, cup, warm sleeping bag, sleeping pad, tent, stove, fuel, trekking pole(s). Rock shoes just in case the weather is really bad and we end up climbing at Smith Rock instead! Technical equipment such as rope, rock and snow protection may be supplied by MAA. 
• Medical: If you have any medical conditions pertinent to your participation on this event, please inform the event leaders after registration. 
• Additional: The itinerary is dependent upon conditions and weather. 

ITINERARY:

• PRIOR: Expedition conference call and logistics coordination early April, TBD
• DAY 1- Wednesday, April 24th: Gather at the Smith Rock State Park "Climbers Bivy" camping area anytime before nightfall. $8 per night. This is our shared basecamp for the Hood and Jefferson teams. We'll have a common cooking area and try to group our tents together as much as possible. If we can get the whole team together in person we'll have a team meeting to check conditions, arrange gear, and make team decisions. If conditions do not look that great we'll stay to climb in Smith Rock instead, or make other plans. 
• DAY 2 - Thursday, April 25th: Drive back to Bend then take Hwy 22 to FS Road 2243, to the trailhead. Hike at least 5 miles to Jefferson Park 5,800' to set up camp and get ready for tomorrow. Total elevation gain approx. 1,800'. Prepare for an early start.
• DAY 3 - Friday, June 26th: Pre-dawn start, ascend Jefferson Park Glacier to the arete, traverse to join the north ridge route, continue to 4th class summit pinnacle. Rappel or downclimb back to north ridge and descend Russell Glacier to camp. Long day, (14 - 18 hrs.) 4,600 elevation gain and descent, all over technical terrain. 
• DAY 4 - Saturday, April 27th: Break camp, return to the trailhead, return home.

IMPORTANT INFORMATION:

• This event is free of charge. MAA receives no direct financial gain for organizing and supporting this event. Donations are not solicited on this event, nor is any exchange of money a requirement for participation.

• This event is open to all Apex, Base, and free Associate members - paid membership is not a requirement of attendance. 

• MAA is a 100% volunteer-run, federal and state recognized 501(c)7 not-for-profit membership organization and does not seek or realize a profit from organizing this event; all membership benefits, liability insurance, website, database, administrative costs and all expenses are supported solely through membership, not event fees.

• MAA event leaders are experienced members who are board-approved and volunteer to host the event as a representative of MAA, but are not operating as a guide or compensated as a guide - all participants on the event share responsibility for the safety, decisions, and actions of the group.

• Accordingly, the physical demands, required skills or technical terrain of some events require that we screen participants; individuals should join the waitlist to be considered for RSVP. The experience, skills and fitness in the MAA membership profile will be used to determine the suitability of each individual to the demands of that particular event.

• Participant safety is our top priority. Many circumstances such as mountain conditions, weather, or subjective hazards may necessitate changes to the published itinerary, including cancellation.

• As a private, non-commercial group we operate within the posted group size limits and regulations for this area.

• All MAA members are taught and practice Leave No Trace principles to be good stewards of wild places.

• The event begins and ends at the trailhead. MAA does not insure ridesharing or other travel arrangements and bears no responsibility for them. Carpooling, ride sharing, or anything similar is strictly a private arrangement among individuals.

• MAA event leaders carry communication devices and a medical kit; The primary event leader at a minimum has current wilderness first aid and CPR training as well as MAA policy training.