Mt. Hood North Face (Basecamp Smith Rock)

Join MAA members to climb Mt. Hood by a technical glacier route. This is the highest mountain in Oregon and a popular mountaineering objective. We'll climb and carry over on a less traveled north face route with a mix of glacier travel, steeper snow climbing and maybe a little water ice. Prior experience in roped glacier travel, steep snow climbing and lightweight bivouacking required. Loaner gear may be available. We have room for 6. Hope to have you out with us!

SCREENED EVENT: Please join the waitlist. Attendees will be selected based on skill proficiency and experience shown on their MAA profile. Those registered will be notified, please pay the expedition fee to confirm. Thank you! 

DETAILS:

• What's happening: 3-day ascent of Mt. Hood via the Eliot Glacier / Sunshine Route, with an option to ascend the Eliot Headwall. Roped glacier travel among crevasses, crossing a bergschrund, climbing on moderate snow / alpine ice. Probably starting at the Tilly Jane TH and ascending to a lightweight bivouac at 7,800' with two roped teams on a carryover, and descent down the south side back to the Timberline TH. It will be important to go light, and therefore (hopefully) fast. Total elevation gain around 7,000'.
• Possibly desert rock climbing if we end up at Smith Rocks instead due to poor weather. This climb immediately precedes the Mt. Jefferson North Ridge climb, which will also be headquartered at Smith Rock SP. During the week of April 22 - 27, MAA members will have an ongoing basecamp at Smith Rock as a backup to both mountain objectives. 
• Where to meet: Timberline Lodge TH, 8:00 am on Monday, April 22nd.
• Event Leader: Darren Shutt, (916) 872-3399 darren@mountainascent.org
• Minimum / Maximum: 4,6
• Required Skills and Fitness: Proficiency in roped glacier travel and crevasse rescue, proficiency in roped lead climbing on moderate snow / 4th class rock, rappelling, navigation, bivouacking, and robust fitness to handle up to three long days. 
• What to bring: Warm, stormproof layers for upper and lower body - 4 layers for upper and 3 layers for lower, minimum. 2 pair socks and gloves, warm mittens, warm headwear, sunglasses, goggles, gaiters. Belay device, prusik, 2 locking and 2 non-locking carabiners, 2 runners, harness, helmet, warm mountain boots, sharp steel crampons fit to your boots, pair of ice tools and/or mountain axes, food for 2 days, waterbottles, spoon, cup, warm sleeping bag, sleeping pad, bivouac, stove, fuel, pot, optional trekking pole(s). Rock shoes just in case the weather is really bad and we end up climbing at Smith Rock instead! Technical equipment such as rope, rock and snow protection may be supplied by MAA. 
• Medical: If you have any medical conditions pertinent to your participation on this event, please inform the event leaders after registration. 
• Additional: The itinerary is dependent upon conditions and weather. 

ITINERARY:

• PRIOR: Expedition conference call and logistics coordination early April, TBD
• DAY 1- Monday, April 22nd: Gather at 8:00 at the trailhead at Timberline Lodge, below the south face of Hood. We'll have a team meeting to check conditions, arrange gear, and make team decisions. If it looks good we'll Leave one car at the trailhead to drive around the north side to the Tilly Jane trailhead. Ascend around 4 miles and approx. 2,000' to a bivy site below the Eliot Glacier.  If conditions do not look that great we'll stay to climb in Smith Rock instead, or make other plans. 
• DAY 2 - Tuesday, April 23rd: With a pre-dawn start, climb moderate snow as rope teams on the Eliot Glacier via the Sunshine route, past the Snowdome, Anderson Rock, Horseshoe Rock and over the bergschrund to join the Cathedral Ridge route, and summitting Mt. Hood 11,239' before 11:00 am. Carry over to descend the south face Hogsback route to the car parked at Timberline TH. Drive back around to the north side TH to retrieve our cars, then all head back south to camp at Smith Rock State Park. 
• DAY 3 - Wednesday, June 24th: Contingency for weather or other plans, as long as we make it back to Smith Rock State Park before nightfall. If we are already at Smith, we'll do some climbing. Darren will be meeting the Jefferson climbing team that evening. 

IMPORTANT INFORMATION:

• This event is free of charge. MAA receives no direct financial gain for organizing and supporting this event. Donations are not solicited on this event, nor is any exchange of money a requirement for participation.

• This event is open to all Apex, Base, and free Associate members - paid membership is not a requirement of attendance. 

• MAA is a 100% volunteer-run, federal and state recognized 501(c)7 not-for-profit membership organization and does not seek or realize a profit from organizing this event; all membership benefits, liability insurance, website, database, administrative costs and all expenses are supported solely through membership, not event fees.

• MAA event leaders are experienced members who are board-approved and volunteer to host the event as a representative of MAA, but are not operating as a guide or compensated as a guide - all participants on the event share responsibility for the safety, decisions, and actions of the group.

• Accordingly, the physical demands, required skills or technical terrain of some events require that we screen participants; individuals should join the waitlist to be considered for RSVP. The experience, skills and fitness in the MAA membership profile will be used to determine the suitability of each individual to the demands of that particular event.

• Participant safety is our top priority. Many circumstances such as mountain conditions, weather, or subjective hazards may necessitate changes to the published itinerary, including cancellation.

• As a private, non-commercial group we operate within the posted group size limits and regulations for this area.

• All MAA members are taught and practice Leave No Trace principles to be good stewards of wild places.

• The event begins and ends at the trailhead. MAA does not insure ridesharing or other travel arrangements and bears no responsibility for them. Carpooling, ride sharing, or anything similar is strictly a private arrangement among individuals.

• MAA event leaders carry communication devices and a medical kit; The primary event leader at a minimum has current wilderness first aid and CPR training as well as MAA policy training.